Archive for April, 2015

The Culinary Traveler: Pão de Queijo – Brazilian Cheese Bread

I have no idea how I luckily fell upon this recipe roaming on the internet. Most recipes are written as variations of each other, so there is not too much unique material, but every so often something new pops up. This recipe, although it uses a familiar technique like making a popover or crepe batter, is a new one for me. Unless you are born in Brazil, you probably have not heard of it. This is Pão de Queijo, or Brazilian cheese bread, sort of like a chewy cheese puff made with non-glutinous tapioca flour.

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The Culinary Traveler: Moroccan Bread with Sesame and Aniseed and Morrocan Mint Tea

There are an entire world of rustic ethnic breads that are easily reproduced in your modern home kitchen. These are breads that were once only available regionally, tasted by the adventurous traveler. But no more. The invisible family boundries are down and the light is rushing in. What is old is now new. What was hidden by geography and religion, is now open to interpretation. Bakers are pushing the envelope. They want to master the techniques.

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The Culinary Traveler: September in the Languedoc

On my first visit to France so long ago in 1977, I was invited to dine in a 200 year old country house of hand-cut stone in a truffle-oak orchard south of Albi. I had just left Paris in August, the month Paris is virtually empty with the natives all abroad or in the country to escape the heat.

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The Baker: Russian Challah (Jewish Egg Bread)

This is my friend Ilana Sharum’s grandmother’s recipe from Russia, which she had transcribed over the phone to me from her recipe written in cursive Hebrew. It is one of my most treasured recipes and I make it for just about every special occasion. There is a saying that when you make this traditional bread (every Friday), you are creating an atmosphere, not just food.

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