carolyn jung's preserved lemons on the ktichen counter

Preserved lemons are made by soaking lemons in a brine solution made of lemon juice, plus salt, sugar, or a combination of the two, until the lemons turn pulpy and soft. They are used as a distinctive condiment or flavor accent in Moroccan cuisine, but have gone on to be so popular and addictive that they show up in everything from gingerbread to rice pilaf, couscous, and salad dressings. Julie and I included the recipe in our Not Your Mother’s Slow Cooker Cookbook since we included the condiment in some of our meat stews. Julie used Carolyn Jung’s (our senior editor at the newspaper) recipe for the lemons, which had run in the Mercury News at some point. Carolyn had learned the technique from Moroccan food expert Kitty Morse in a cooking class. You will need to make the preserved lemon about 2 weeks ahead to make a dish, so plan ahead.  We adore the mystical quality the preserved lemon adds to a dish and hope you do too.  If it is a new condiment for you, do take the bold step to try it. The fruit will change, day by day, into the tart, pulpy preserved lemons. Preserved lemons add a salty element, as well as a deeply lemony flavor, to foods. Just finely chop the lemons and add to a dish during cooking, or at the end as a flavor accent. This is a recipe for homegrown, unsprayed lemons, either the tart Eureka or the sweet Meyer,which has a more tender rind. This recipe also works with limes.

Ingredients

About 6 to 8 juicy fresh lemons, thin-skinned Meyers if possible

About 2/3 cup fine kosher salt

Clean quart glass jar with a tight-fitting lid

Instructions

Wash the lemons and dry them thoroughly. Using a clean dry knife, quarter the lemons, remove any seeds, and trim and discard the ends. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of the jar.  Layer the lemons into the jar, alternating with salt, adding 1 tablespoon of salt for each whole lemon. As you reach the top of the jar, press down on the lemons to cram as many pieces as possible into the jar (As you do this, the lemons will exude their juice.). When the jar is tightly packed, the level of juice will have risen to or near the top of the jar. Seal the jar and gently shake it to mix the salt and juice. If you are having trouble submerging the lemons, fill the space at the top of the jar with a piece of crumpled plastic wrap.

Place the jar on a countertop out of direct sunlight and shake it gently

every day. In the first few days, as the lemons begin to soften, they may pack down enough to allow you to add another lemon or two. Do so if you can to keep the jar full.

The lemons are ready to use when they are mushy and the juice is syrupy. This will take a few weeks. Once you begin to use the lemons, store the jar in the refrigerator, where it will keep for several months.

Excerpted from Not Your Mother’s Slow Cooker Cookbook, by Beth Hensperger and Julie Kaufmann. (c) 2005, used by permission from the Harvard Common Press.

My favorite Italian flavors–lemons, walnuts, anise, and raisins–are the spirited Mediterranean additions to this barely sweet cake, which you will be proud to serve for a festive occasion.  It also toasts nicely after a day or two.

Yield:  One 10-inch tube cake

Ingredients

• 6 large eggs

• 2 cups sugar

• 3/4 cup light olive oil

• 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons baking powder

• Grated zest of 2 lemons

• 3/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 cup milk

• 2 teaspoons pure anise extract

• 1 cup golden raisins

• 1 cup (4 ounces) walnuts, coarsely chopped

• Powdered sugar, for dusting

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 375º.  Grease and flour a 10-inch plain or fluted tube pan and set aside.  With an electric mixer, blender, or balloon whisk, beat the eggs, sugar, and oil on high speed or briskly by hand until thick and creamy, about 2 minutes.
2. In another bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, lemon zest, and salt.  Combine the milk and anise extract in a measuring cup.  Add the egg mixture to the dry ingredients alternately with the milk mixture.  Beat just until moistened but thoroughly blended.  Do not overmix, but there should be no lumps or dry spots.  Fold in the raisins and the walnuts until evenly combined.
3. Pour the batter into the prepared tube pan.  Bake in the center of the preheated oven until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 55 to 65 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let stand in the pan for 15 minutes.  Remove from the pan by inverting the cake onto a rack right side up; cool slightly.  Place the powdered sugar in a small sieve, place the rack over a piece of waxed paper, and dust the sugar over the cake while slightly warm.  Transfer the cake to a serving plate.  Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges.  This cake freezes well for up to 2 months, but dust with the powdered sugar pushed through a mesh sieve just before serving.

Excerpted from The Best Quick Breads, by Beth Hensperger. (c) 2000, used by permission from the Harvard Common Press.